Can you reuse thrust washers

When measured by means of a micrometer you will only have a thickness measurement. When set on a good flat surface and measured by means of a depth micrometer not a digital caliper you will have the dimension that controls the end-play end-float. The metal side of such crankshaft thrust washers should be flattened by means of a surface grinder to a thickness of 0.

Re: crank shaft thrust washers 8. I guess this is another case of finding replacement mundane parts are often not quite right. We are lucky so many parts are still available but one can't always just install them as is. For example, many years ago I replaced worn single row camshaft sprockets with new dual row sprockets. Those were from India. I also purchased a new cam thrust plate. I had to machine the back of the big sprocket to get proper clearance.

I don't know which part was incorrect. But it has held up for many years and miles. Bob McCoy Pull Handle. Re: crank shaft thrust washers 9. Re: crank shaft thrust washers So, to confirm, the steel side goes to the cap, the copper side to the crank? Speedracer Hap Waldrop. In reply to by surgeryprize So, to confirm, the steel side goes to the cap, the copper side to the crank?

Acme Speed Shop www. Or put another way, the sides with the slots for oil flow should face the crankshaft, not the engine block I installed my new thrust bearings on the crank and when I tightened everything down to half the spec the crank would not turn. So I put in the old thrust bearings and when I tightened everything down to half the spec The crank will still not turn. I am wondering if it is possible that my engine rebuilder has provided me with the wrong bearings, or maybe everything is supposed to be really stiff until it works in, But there is no way I can turn the crank by hand.

Does anybody have any advice For a frustrated newbie? Location Login. Back to top. Home Products Plain bearings Bushings, thrust washers and strips Thrust washers Design of thrust washer arrangements.

Section navigation. Thrust washers Product table: Thrust washers. I panicked. Cleaned up, it looks like a broken washer lock tab. At any rate, the thrust washers were still in place - thank God - and when they came out, the rear one was.

The grooves in the rear washer had worn almost flat and there were a couple of small chips at either end so that one was probably on the way out. The bearing and cap were in good shape and were replaced. I cleaned the pan and oil screen and now to reassemble.

I decided to leave well enough alone on the other bearings. Why the crank moved so much is a mystery. Looks like I dodged a bullet. Opa Jedi Trainee. I agree with Casey and now you can use a feeler gauge effectively between the rear TW and the crankshaft directly. See the picture It seemed right on. I'll have to check it again at the pulley when I get a few miles on it.

The pan was full of sludge as you can imagine after 40 years. After thorough cleaning, I put new oil in although it was changed a month or so ago. I'll try to send a picture of the metal piece I found but I'm not optimistic. I also sprayed some carb cleaner on both ends of the throttle shaft. The idle speed went down just a bit for about a second on the front carb but there was no change on the rear.

Hopefully all the work is finished - except for the valve guides which will be done when the head is pulled this winter - and I can now start driving and enjoying the car. I was very lucky to have found a TR6 expert who did a lot of the heavy lifting and helped me complete these repairs. I'm getting too old and stiff to lay under a car anymore. I wish I had a lift Brosky Great Pumpkin. While you have the head off, you should remove and mark the location of each push rod and check the cam followers lifters.

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